Wafer-thin
cays and farclung atolls, white-sand beaches and lush green
volcanic mountains, a slow page, friendly people, funky
dancing - what's not to like about the Cook Islands? They
also have excellent hiking, snorkelling, caving or just
lazing.
Any
time is a good time to visit the Cook Islands. Seasonal
variations are slight. Festivals may sway your plans:
the big dance competition is in late April, the independence
bash in early August.
Island traditions are on display during Cultural Festival
Week (second week of February), featuring tivaevae quilt
competitions and arts and crafts displays; and Island
Dance Festival Week (third week of April), with dance
displays and competitions culminating in the crowning
of male and female Dancers of the Year. Song Quest,
held over five weeks beginning in July, culminates in
a big finale where singers, musicians and performers
from throughout the islands search for stardom on Rarotonga.
Beginning
on the Friday before 4 August, the 10-day Constitution
Festival celebrates independence with sports, dances,
music, historical and cultural displays and many other
events. This is the Cooks' major festival of the year.
During the last week of November, floral float parades,
a beauty pageant and flower arranging competitions all
mark the Tiare (Floral) Festival. Dancing and other entertainments
mark New Year's Eve.
Avarua, the capital of the Cook Islands and Rarotonga's
main town, lies in the middle of the northern coast. Until
recently, Avarua was a sleepy little port, very much the
image of a South Seas trading centre. The town had quite
a facelift to spruce it up for the international Maire
Nui festival in 1992, and it's had some development since,
but its relaxed, friendly ambience remains. The focal
point of the town is the traffic circle, located toward
the eastern end of town near Avarua Harbour. Just east
of the circle is the Seven-in-One Coconut Tree, a group
of trees growing in a perfect circle of their own. Legend
has it that they've grown from the same seed.
Aitutaki ranks behind Rarotonga in the visitor contest,
and it lacks the sheer physical beauty of its larger neighbour,
but it has charms all its own. For a start, it sits at
one corner of a triangular lagoon dotted with lovely motu
(small islands). And it's historically interesting, with
a number of impressive marae (pre-European religious meeting
grounds) that are open to visitors. Aitutaki also has
one of the best 'island nights' dance and music performances
in the Cooks.
Arutanga is the main village - a sleepy place with a weathered
1828 CICC church, the oldest and one of the most beautiful
in the Cooks, with lots of carved wood and stained glass
windows. There are lots of funky little shops, and the
view of the coastline from the end of the jetty is superb.
Rarotonga is a lush, beautiful place, fringed with beaches
and crowned with mountains at its centre. Two concentric
roads ring the island, and most of its attractions are
on or near one of them. On the western coast, 'Arorangi
was the first mission-built village and was meant to be
a model village for the rest of the island. The main place
of interest is the 1849 CICC Church, where Papeiha, the
islands' first Christian preacher, is buried. Rising up
behind 'Arorangi is the flat-topped peak of Raemaru, a
good destination for a day hike.
The Cook Islands Cultural Village, on Arorangi's back
road, is a great experience: you'll learn more about traditional
Cook Islands culture in one day here than you probably
will for the rest of your stay. Guided tours visit a number
of traditional huts and include demonstrations on Cook
Islands history, Maori medicine, ancient fishing techniques,
coconut husking, woodcarving and dancing. The tour is
followed by a feast of traditional foods accompanied by
yet more dancing.
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